Sangiovese: Tuscany's grape, in more than one voice

Sangiovese is the grape behind most of Tuscany's serious reds. It is also one of the most place sensitive varieties in Italy, which means two bottles of the same grape can feel like two different wines.

What it tastes like

• FruitSour cherry, red plum, sometimes dried strawberry. Rarely dark and jammy.
• AcidityHigh. This is the backbone, and the reason it works so well at the table.
• Savoury notesDried herbs, tomato leaf, tea leaf, and with age, leather and earth.
• TanninFirm and slightly dusty. It grips gently rather than coating.

The same grape, different voices

In Chianti Classico, where Sangiovese makes up at least 80 per cent of the blend and 90 per cent for Gran Selezione, the wines tend to be brighter and more lifted, with red fruit and herbal freshness to the fore.

In Montalcino, where Brunello is made entirely from Sangiovese and spends years maturing before release, the same variety reads deeper, drier and more tertiary, with tannin built for the long term.

Elsewhere in Tuscany, Sangiovese appears in lighter everyday reds, in blends with international varieties, and in coastal wines where the warmth softens its edges.

Why food works so well with it

Acidity and savoury character are exactly what rich food wants. Sangiovese cuts through olive oil, fat and slow cooked meat, and its herbal side sits comfortably next to tomato, rosemary and grilled char.

Drunk alone, a young Sangiovese can feel austere. Give it a plate of food and it opens up.

The label is not the whole story

Grape name, place, ageing and producer intention all matter. If you enjoyed one Sangiovese and want another like it, note where it came from and how long it had been aged. That will get you closer than the variety alone.